Alaska Adventure; Part Nine

14 June 2013; Out to See the Sea --

View out our Bus Window; Pass Lake

By bus to Seward for another "boat tour". Although the Kenai Fjiords boat tour out of Seward also includes a viewing of a Tidewater Glacier (Harding Glacier, named after the only President who has visited Alaska), the sea life that one may expect to see is more numerous and decidedly different that what one might see out of Whittier. This day would prove my point.

One of the Not-Sickly Seven; Seward in the background

The boat trip out from Seward to Kenai Fjiords National Park took an hour or more. During this time we enjoyed views of each other as well as views of the mountain scenery. Certain people to pre-emptive Dramamine to prevent any possibility of sea-sickness. They were totally successful in their actions, although how anyone could get mal a mer on such calm waters was incomprehensible to an old swabbie like Grumpy [he got a mild case!].

Later, further out on the water, a Mountain View somewhat similar to the one from the bus window demanded to be remembered with a photograph. There were many more similar views as we passed along this inlet out of Seward. All of these inlets (some are called "fjiords") are evidence of great glaciers flowing out of the mountains that surround them.



The sighting of a Mountain Goat ewe (mother/Nannie) and her  Kid (baby/goatling?) dictated a stop for a few moments so all could crowd to the Starboard side of the boat (a Catamaran hull) to take a hundred photos. Grumpy caught this and three others with the telephoto capability of his little Panasonic video/still camera.

Later, someone spotted this pair of Bald Eagles sitting in a Spruce tree. Their nest is about three "eagle body lengths" below the left-most Eagle. The Bald Eagle is the National Bird of the United States (Benjamin Franklin thought it ought to be the wild turkey). There are actually more Bald Eagles in Canada than in the U.S. Their primary food in this part of North America is fish -- salmon in the late Summer and ealry Fall when the salmon are migrating upstream to spawn (lay and fertilize eggs for the next generation of salmon).

Still later some seals were noticed sunbathing on some rocks. Each sighting of an animal resulted in the boat Captain (a Lady named Laura) to reward her passengers with generous opportunities to photograph the subject.

And so it was that when some Humpback whales were seen breaching [full body leap out of the water and slamming broadside back down to the surface!] a prolonged stop was made. Unfortunately none of the Octogenarian Seven were quick enough with their cameras to capture this two or three times repeated antic.

At last we reached the ultimate destination: the Harding Glacier, so-named because Warren Harding was the first (and so far, the only) President to visit Alaska. The Ice Field which occupies most of the Kenai Peninsula from just North of Seward, all the way to the South-most tip, is also named for President Harding. Many glaciers flow out of the Harding Ice Field; most are Tidewater glaciers, but some, such as Exit Glacier (just North of Seward), are very easily accessible by foot. A road leads to the foot of Exit Glacier [Grumpy was able to walk up and touch the "toe" of Exit when he visited Alaska in 1990 and 1995].

The tour boat remained close to the Harding Glacier for about 15 or 20 minutes. It was hoped that a significant "calving" would take place; Grumpy had his video going, "just in case". He took some "stills" of the face to compare with photos he had taken 18 years ago, to see how much the glacier had receded since then. Grumpy noted that, on his previous visits, the rock outcroppings that can be seen in this later photo, were completely covered by the glacier then.

 The Harding Glacier refused to "cooperate" with a big calving -- or even a decent little one while we watched.

Alaska Adventure; Part Four

10 June 2013; On the Railroad Again --

Today, we continued our way down to Anchorage by boarding the Alaska Railroad Classic at about noon. So this morning, Grumpy has determined to see if he can find his old friend, Bill Bailey, who was the bus driver Grumpy enjoyed so much the first two times he drove up to Alaska. Yesterday our bus driver revealed that he had been working in the Park, and that he knew that Bill was now a Park Ranger. So, Grumpy decided to walk to the Park Visitor Center to inquire where Bill might be today.

Walking through the woods, on the way to the Visitor Center, Grumpy spied movement in the small spruce and willow forest off to his left. Yes!! There it was; a nice young Moose nibbling on the willow buds that were making their appearance this early in the season [See his ears?]. I also took a short video of this guy, as the still photo may not be as convincing as something that shows motion. [No more white dots that Grumpy calls "Mountain Goats"!]

Finally, at Headquarters, Grumpy learned that today is Bill Bailey's day off. So I gave the nice young lady a short note to Bill, with my telephone number and e-mail address on it. I sure do hope he decides to give me a call or e-mail to an renew old friendship.

[During my shuttle bus ride up to the Headquarters, we came to a cow Moose that had just given birth to a baby, who is supposedly laying right beside (or under?) her.]

Then, before we boarded the train that took us on down to Anchorage, we went up to the dog training area and looked at the working dogs used by the Park staff in the Winter.  I got this photo of my sister "schmoozing" with Gaiter, one of the retired sled dogs.

Tomorrow, we will have a whole day in Anchorage. What can be shown that will be interesting -- some animals in the Zoo, perhaps?

We shall see!

Alaska Adventure; Part Three

Sunday, 10 June 2013; On the Road to The Great One --

Getting up at 0230 [due to a mistaken reading of the trusty timepiece!], Grumpy looked out from his aerie perched on the steep hillside opposite Denali National Park headquarters. The open window next to his bed had rewarded him -- and his younger sister, who occupied the other Queen-sized bed in this large room -- of the delightful odor of pure, fresh mountain air. The view included a long, curvy section of the Alaska Railroad, up which they had come from Fairbanks the previous day. A train whistle pierced the early morning stillness; a freight train from Anchorage, headed to Fairbanks, soon became evident across the mile-wide canyon etched out by eons of work of the Nenana River which flowed between Grumpy's perch and the railway. Grumpy felt refreshed and thankful to be alive on what promised to be a beautiful morning.

Peering out the big window, the 4-5,000 foot mountains could be seen through the dim light of this pre-sunrise hour, with their vestiges of white snow streaking down the ravines on their slopes. In the distance, over the tops of these nearby "hills", could be seen another more completely snow covered mountain; obviously much higher than these in our foreground. Was it the tip of Denali? No, Grumpy decided, as he detected dark ridges devoid of snow interrupting the snowy mantle; just another "minor" mountain. A mere foothill -- maybe 8-10,000 feet high -- of the Great One.

The sun will come up in about an hour at this high latitude. Breakfast will be served in the main lodge building at 0500 and the tour bus will pick them up at about 0600 to take them up the primitive road where they will be greeted by breath-taking views of Denali -- if it is "out". "Out", in this case means that the clouds will not be in evidence that usually obscure views of this massive mountain. At 20,230 feet high, Denali is the tallest mountain on the North American Continent. It is the keystone of the Alaska Range, which is distinctly independent of the Rocky Mountain or Cascade Mountain chains.

After a hearty breakfast and a confused assembly on the shuttle bus, we departed on the "Katashna Experience". In this case it began on a non-nondescript dark green ex-schoolbus driven by an animated young man (of 51). Grumpy had fore-warned each member of this group of seven that the prospects of seeing Denali was slim on any given day. Well, thank God today was not "any given" -- it was indeed a God-given!!

As we rounded a critical curve along the 100-mile road into this wilderness wildlife National Park, the Great One loomed his head above all and a collective "oooh" erupted from the passengers in the bus.

The day continued to surprise Grumpy. We saw animals galore: Grizzly Bear, Moose, Caribou, Dall Sheep, Fox. Many were at a distant that did not lend to first-hand (naked eye) viewing, but Grumpy's little combination movie and still camera with its 42X zoom brought some of these in so the features of the animals could be plainly seen.

This herd of Dall Sheep ewes and lambs was noted at a distance of at least a quarter mile. Later we got some Dall Rams that were much closer to the road.

Others did not require the zoom at all! This red-phase Arctic Fox practically trotted under the bus. He seemed intent on wherever he was going and looked neither to the right nor the left.

This silver-tipped Arctic Fox was busy digging up a mole or maybe an Arctic Ground Squirrel. Grumpy has a movie of him during his digging and subsequent successful snack. [If you want to see the movies, you'll have to come to Grumpy's digs -- and hope he finds his CD with the software link to the wide-screen TV.]

The twin baby Moose were also caught on Grumpy's movie camera, but when he went to still, they assumed this impolite pose. [They must have never heard the Grand Mother's admonition about "rear views", eh?!

A couple of young moose (meese?) were spotted within walking distance of the Park headquarters. This one is chewing on a newly-budded willow. He was non-chalant about our bus driving very slowly by as I took this photo -- and a short movie.

 There is much more to show and tell, but it will have to wait or I'll never get this post out for you to read and see what we have been up to! Come back tomorrow.

A hot, freshly-brewed cup of coffee is handed to Grumpy by his sister, whom he declares that he "may keep her, after all!" She playfully swats at his head as he peremptorily ducks. They laugh. It is a good catharsis for both of them, this sight-seeing trip on which they have embarked with their brother who shares the middle age between them.

The Great Prairie Safari -- Day Thirteen

13 May 2013; Gooddale's Cut-Off --

Early morning viewing of "cute little creatures", including this Golden Mantle ground squirrel got the human denizens out of their warm sleeping bags and tent relatively early.

Leaving the Craters of the Moon National Monument, we drove along a wagon train route surveyed by a guy named Gooddale. A historical sign told that this route was explored as a cut-off, reducing the distance from a Snake River crossing near Pocatello to Farewell Bend by several days' travel. But mainly due to the Oregon-bound travelers' concerns over Indian raids and/or harassment along the Snake River route to the South. This route went along the North edge of the Craters of the Moon and over fairly high mountains; further West.

When the next meal was discussed [GGSon's I & II brought up the subject almost as soon as we had finished breakfast and were headed down the road] another beef steak was expressly desired by #I. Grumpy suggested Baker City, shortly after we cross the border into Oregon. That town being a "cowboy town", he opined that there would be better quality steaks than in a town in Idaho. After perusing the names of various restaurants listed by Greta Garmin, and driving though downtown Baker, Grumpy hinally directed the Chaufeur to pull into the Trail Cafe just off the freeway. GGSon I devoured a thick T-Bone, cooked "medium" (pink in the middle), complete with all the trimmings. Grumpy tried to keep up with his New York steak, but lost out with hardly a whimper. [How could that skinny little --uh, big kid surround such huge quantities of food??]

As we climbed the Blue Mountains from the East, dark clouds up ahead at first threatened, and later made good on that threat by drenching our "wagon" and motivating a discussion between the passengers about the wisdom of our planned stay in Emigrant Springs State Park for the night. Due to the increasingly heavy rain,  we cancelled our plans to camp out at Emigrant Springs and instead elected to spend our last night in a Super 8 in Pendleton. This motel had a swimming pool, much to the delight of the two boys. Instead of supper this night, they opted to "hit the pool".

They would have stayed until closing time (2200), but for the Queen Mother who called, "TIME!" at about 2030 so we could all get a good night's sleep in this most comfortable "camping ground".

Tomorrow will be the last day of the "Great Prairie Safari" and the last installment of this series. Don't miss it -- no telling what will happen!

The Great Prairie Safari -- Day Eleven

11 May 2013; Across the Burning Desert --

The boys were understandably full of enthusiasm in getting ready to leave our luxurious [we had hot showers!] campground in Thermopolis; no more warm swim pools for awhile.

Their enthusiasm was well-jusified, as this view of the road ahead demonstrated continuously. 

One thing that had the Queen and Grumpy entertained throughout Wyoming was the large, frequently displayed sign, "Be Alert ... Motorcyles are Everywhere". We had seen this sign at least a dozen times on our journey through Wyoming -- and had counted a total of less than  half a dozen motorcycles! 

So it was in this spirit that Grumpy took advantage of this occasion of a rare motorcycle sighting.

But the real reason for taking this road across this otherwise forgettable landscape was because Grumpy had seen evidence of the wagon train trails which were historically known to have passed along this way.

At an opportunity where the scar in the desert vegetation was near our highway, we stopped and walked through the Rattlesnake infested sagebrush to get this photo. This is in the center of the scar inflicted in this sparse vegetation by the numerous wagons and animals that traversed this path.

Whoops! That was the wrong picture! They look all tired out like they have been on this trail for several days -- going 8-12 miles a day like the original pioneers. Here is today's photo, showing the happy Safarians as their Leader (the Great Grumpy) instructed them. [To look like they are enjoying this trip!! -- Darn it!!!]

No photo-journalist worth his pepper (salt not allowed for Grumpy) would miss the opportunity to get a photo including both the "cute little prairie dog" and its gushing admirer. Hence this rare photo: both the Queen and two or three of the little varmints (pups, all). This sight was at the Echo Rest Stop along I-80 in Utah.

The Great Prairie Safari -- Day Six

6 May 2013; Through the Black Hills –

Waking at sunrise with big-idea plans to see “all that is worth seeing” in the Southern Black Hills in one continuous and non-repetitive road trip, Grumpy was becoming a little frustrated with the morning-sleeping habits of his safari companions. Here we were, resting overnight in beautiful Fisherman’s Flat area of Custer State Park [aka: The Haystack] and some of us were “burning daylight” by snoozing in the sack late into the day.

The seven o’clock arousing of the “Queen” and her preparing a delicious hot breakfast of sausage links and pancakes quickly dispelled Grumpy’s concerns, however. [The fact that she occasionally makes  Grumpy’s favorite dessert, genuine Lemon Meringue Pie, is also a factor!]

Wandering on along US 16A, toward what Grumpy remembered as the way to Crazy Horse, we encountered a large contingent of Buffalo cows with their week-old to month-old calves working their way from Point A to Point B by means of the easiest path: the main highway. This Buffalo encounter surprised even Grumpy, the old veteran South Dakotan and former bison owner. There were an estimated 30-50 bison cows, most of them with their week- to month-old calves. We were able to hear their distinctive grunt, as they passed within “spitting distance” from our car. 

One young girl deigned to look Grumpy in the eye, as if to say, “Well, what are you looking for old man?”

This chance encounter, which we would have missed if we had been an hour (or even 15 minutes) earlier, provided ample proof to Grumpy that God works wonders to bless what man thinks is a tragedy of oversleeping. Grumpy thanked his troops for their earlier late-arisings.

Crazy Horse Memorial was the first scheduled sight on this day; the boys and their Mother were all smiles as they posed on the viewing deck of the “Laughing Water” restaurant. [The laughing water was not running as its channel was filled with yet-unmelted snow!] We had lunch in Laughing Water restaurant. The Great Grandsons each had a Buffalo Cheeseburger (GGson II, without the cheese); their Mother had a “Garden Burger” – and a bite of Grumpy’s Bison Stew. All declared “it was good”.

Next came Mount Rushmore. [We learned at Crazy Horse that the total volume of the four Presidents’ likenesses would fit inside the massive concrete likeness of Crazy Horse’s head!] Of course Frumpy had to have a pose of his Great Grandsons with their Mother arranged in a photo that included the Presidents’ faces – and excluding as much of the scenery-intruding modern-day structures as possible.

Grumpy’s master plan was working out perfectly so far. The Iron Mountain Road beckoned next. This highway was at least strongly guided, if not directly designed, by Peter Norbeck (South Dakota’s first native governor and supposedly a highway engineer). Legend has it that, in order to protect Iron Mountain from future desecration by mining the rich iron deposits it contained, Mr. Norbeck had the highway curve, weave and wobble its way such that no spot on the mountain was more than 1000 feet of this highway. South Dakota’s Constitution or legislation forbids any mining activity within 1000 feet of a public road.

One of its features are three tunnels oriented to provide the observant motorist of a view of Mount Rushmore either in his windshield or in his rear view mirror. Since our rear view mirror was blocked  by “various and sundry necessities” that the Queen and her court loaded therein, we were destined to park the Subaru and take this photo “au naturale”.

After cresting Iron Mountain we drove on toward what Grumpy remembered as the way to the Needles Highway. Finally arriving at the intersection and ignoring a sign which said something about a road closure ahead, Grumpy persisted for about 15 miles at which point he encountered a solidly-closed highway to the Needles. Inquiring of the workers who were just then leaving, we were instructed as to a “short, fast” route to Rapid City.

After refueling a near-empty tank in the outskirts of Rapid City we drove East on I-90 to the town of Wall, “Gateway to the Badlands” and home (or beneficiary?!) of Wall Drug, known literally world-wide as a result of the promotional genius of its founder, Ted Hustead in collusion with innumerable GI’s during World War II. Alas, we arrived a few minutes before closing time (1900) and could not partake of the anticipated Buffalo burger and the advertised free doughnut and cup of coffee for Grumpy, a WWII veteran.

As we drove in the dusk toward the Cedar Pass Campground, having given up on any meaningful photos of this part of the Badlands, we were pleasantly surprised to spot this coyote -- I suspect we interrupted his acquisition of his evening meal: a nice fat, juicy Prairie Dog.

We continued on to the heart of the Badlands, where we set up our tents and slept the peaceful rest of completely innocent voyagers.

More tomorrow.

The Great Prairie Safari -- Day Five

5 May 2013; Mammoths, Caves and Wild Animals --

We awakened, this fifth day of the Great Prairie Safari from our stay at a Motel 6 – we unanimously agreed that our nights sleeping on the ground were more comfortable! In retrospect, Grumpy would seek more diligently for a campsite rather than choose a Motel 6.

Our first visit of the day was to the “Mammoth Site”. This is a natural deposit of both Columbian and Wooly Mammoths, as well as numerous other mammalian and reptilian skeletons. The reason for this rich find is that these animals were lured by the presence of warm water to drink. The Limestone edges of this pool of water were undercut by the dissolving action of the hot water, however, and did not support the weight of the huge animals. Carnivores were attracted to the opportunity of a “free lunch”, and were similarly entrapped in the pool with impossible-to-climb-out shores.

Also in Hot Springs is “Evan’s Plunge”, an historic resort site, appealing to the hoi poloi in the “olden days”, but affordable to the “rabble” now.  Grumpy wanted the boys to enjoy the luxury of a swim in this large, naturally-refilled 16 times a day pool – the mere fact that they hadn’t had a shower or bath since we left Fort Bale had absolutely nothing to do with Grumpy’s eagerness.

Many years ago, on a winter recruiting trip, Grumpy purchased a disposable paper swim trunks so he could take advantage of an indoor swimming pool at a motel where he was staying. When he tried to convince the Swede of this possibility, she was inexplicably incredulous! [Too much "Wood Alcohol"?] Nevertheless, Grumpy inquired of the Evans Plunge manager if they had “disposable” swim suits; they did not. Hence Grumpy’s disappointment that the opportunity for a swim was not afforded the Queen of the Prairie Safari.

After a one-hour playtime in Evan’s Plunge, the adventurous quartet continued with the finale of this day’s busy agenda: A guided tour in Wind Cave. We would be the last tour group to enter the cave this day. A major feature of Wind Cave is its extensive "boxwork" formations. These are formed when Calcite mineral  is deposited in minute cracks in the limestone that is the main rock in "cave country". During later cycles carbonated water dissolves the limestone, leaving the Calcite membranes.

Grumpy had already determined that this night we would camp in “The Haystack”. However, he did not anticipate the multitude of wild animals they would encounter on the road to the Haystack. We were able  to capture these up-close photos because of the cooperation of these animals -- no human beings were endangered during the taking of these photos.

We came upon a large herd of Buffalo, grazing in a nearby valley. The Queen was sufficiently impressed to get out of the car and, stretching her height-challenged stature to look over the fence, took this photo.

You'll have to ask the Swede for the f-Stop, timing and range she used to capture the photo on the left. Grumpy was driving and couldn't watch what she was doing.

The animal in this last photo seemed to be Her Majesty's favorite, as she bubbled and emoted all over the place each time she saw a bunch of these little varmints, the nemeses of the prairie cowboy. Grumpy will never reveal to her that he used to use them for target practice -- might endanger his Lemon Meringue Pie resource.

Keep watching -- more to come tomorrow!

The Great Prairie Safari -- Day Four Extra

4 May 2013; Wild Horse Country --

As we drove Northward toward our night's destination (a Motel 6 in Hot Springs), the Swede spied a sign that said "wild horses". So at her insistence Grumpy screeched the little Subaru to an "emergency stop" and detoured off the main highway to a spot where she could get her satisfaction at seeing some real, live, wild mustangs.

As an old, native South Dakotan, Grumpy was aware of the unwritten welcome that visitors have to come through a gate in a fence -- even if it is closed -- as long as you reclose it after you pass through. Also, you are welcome as long as you don't harass or otherwise disturb any animals that may be in that enclosed area. So it was that, as the Swede opened the gate, Grumpy drove through. 

The photos of the mustangs that were thereby obtained from a respectful distance were reward enough to more than cancel out the angry confrontation by the  [New Yorker/Do Gooder?] lady who happened by as we were exiting -- again opening the gate and reclosing it.

Continuing Saga of a Small Brazilian Dove--Pt II

November 7th; Adelaide's Casa, Brazil--

In a recent post, I introduced a small Brazilian dove mother whom I said was sitting on one egg. I had taken Uncle Bob's word for the single egg; as it turns out, there were two eggs in that nest! No more; now there are two little, half-naked, fuzzy chicks!

I noted, when we returned from visiting Bob's friends in Sao Jose de Campos, that the mother dove seemed to be sitting higher in her nest than before we left. Sure enough, she was semi-standing over the product of her incubation! As I sought to get a photo of her new attitude, she flew out of her nest. The good thing was that this gave me an opportunity to get up closer and view what was the reason for her new positioning.

Now I shall take periodic photos depicting the development of these two chicks, hopefully even a video of the mother feeding them. And, hopefully, of these new creatures making their first solo flight!! [Do baby doves take flight instructions?]

 

Dream on, Grumpy, dream on.

Brazilian Doves

During October; Sao Paulo State, Brazil --

The other day I posted a description of the maturing life of a dove chick and its mother. Over about the same time period I had the opportunity to film a pair of wild doves of the large (25-30 cm) variety, together with several wild doves of the more common, small (10-12 cm) variety feeding on corn scattered for the chickens at Sao Carlos.

Now I want to show you both kinds in one frame so you can see for yourself the large differences in their sizes and markings. The large dove has the blue, horizontal bars on its neck on either side (an "authoritative" book on Brazilian birds shows these bars as red!). The smaller dove has three dark patches on each side on their wings.

Now we begin a new, exciting  tale  for which I introduce to you a mother dove of the small variety, sitting on a nest in the extremely convenient location of Adelaide's garage! This mother is sitting on just one egg, approximately two or three weeks into incubation, so we may be blessed to watch as this happy event as it proceeds to hatching, feeding and maybe even fledgling!

More sightings, more adventures, ... LESS foolishness [but my back is healing!!]

Story of a Brazilian Dove

18th-21st October; Sao Carlos vicinity --

A large Brazilian dove chose to make her nest in full view of the residents (all male) of the second level of the Tennis Club dormitory. At first as I viewed her, she sat as motionless as a statue, turning her head neither to the right nor to the left -- not even blinking her eye!

It was said that she had chicks, and one of the residents told of watching her feeding them early one morning. So the next morning I crawled out of my nice, warm bed [wait a minute! it is so hot down here that one usually lies on top rather than in one's bed], at the first indication of daylight. This was about an hour before sunrise. I could barely see her sitting on the nest -- unmoved since the night before, as far as I could tell.

 

As I waited and watched, she never left her nest; finally, as the appointed time for breakfast arrived, I abandoned my vigil until later. However, when I returned an hour or so later, she was still in the same position; my opportunity to watch her feed her chick(s) seemed doomed.

The next morning I was pleased to see that she had reoriented herself. I also got a short video of her movements as I made various noises to attract her attention and/or curiosity. The chick (now I could identify that there was only one) also moved for a better look at the "noisemaker".

Later the third day, the chick was sitting virtually side-by-side with its Mother. Also notice that the Mother dove's crop appears less full than in the earlier morning photo; she apparently had fed her chick and I had missed the event. 

Near sunset on this third day of my observations, I noted a rather alert, neck-outstretched posture by the mother and chick. What was going to happen next, I wondered.

Sure enough, the next morning (day four) I was greeted by an empty nest! I had missed the fledging event of the young chick.

Such is life.